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Emerald ash borerWhat is Emerald Ash Borer (EAB)? EAB is an insect from Asia, inadvertently imported 10-15 years ago that has invaded parts of Ohio and is starting to kill ash trees.

This wood-boring beetle generally kills ash trees over a three to five year period. Adults are dark metallic green, about the size of a TIC-TAC, and are able to migrate between trees from May and September. Once they lay eggs beneath the bark the insect larvae remain beneath the bark of trees and when they emerge as adults, leave behind small D-shaped exit holes in the bark.

EAB initially arrived through cargo containers and infested Michigan. The EAB is now in parts of Illinois, Indiana, Maryland, and Ohio with the closest spotting to Cincinnati along I-75 in Warren County. The migration pattern of the pest would indicate that the spotty infestation areas indicate the pest is being transported thru contaminated wood products such as firewood. The City of Montgomery has been working with the Ohio Department of Agriculture to monitor small ash trees in our community. Thus far there have been no sightings of EAB in Montgomery.

The City of Montgomery will continue to work with the Department of Agriculture to monitor the pest. Some Ohio communities have responded to EAB by indicating that they want to remove all ash trees whether or not there are infested. The City’s approach regarding this pest is cautious and reactionary.

This monitoring approach has historical relevance. Many of you will remember another notorious pest, the Elm bark beetle that impacted and killed elm trees in the 1970’s and 80’s. While many elms died as result of this pest, some trees survived. Had communities simply removed all elm trees at that time an entire species of trees would have been eliminated.

A wonderful example of an elm tree that survived the impacts of the Elm bark beetle is at the Montgomery Safety Center just east of the “Safety Sea”. The survival of this tree is due in part to genetics and natural selection and should be viewed as a basis to not panic and remove every ash tree just because there is a pest that is threatening that particular tree species.

The City of Montgomery stopped planting ash trees in 2004 as a precautionary measure even though ash trees were available and at a good price. Presently one is not even able to purchase ash trees at Ohio nurseries. The City of Montgomery will continue the monitoring program and enjoy the beauty of our Ash tree population however we must temper that with preparation for the worst if, or when, the EAB arrives so that our urban forests are protected for current and future generations.

One question often asked is whether or not ash tree be treated to prevent attack. Companies do advertise treatments but these treatments are generally not guaranteed to prevent infestation, are expensive and have to be applied every year.

For further information contact a reputable tree company with questions regarding treatment options and costs. With approximately 10 -15% percent of all trees in the City of Montgomery being Ash trees, once EAB arrives it will most likely have a huge impact on our landscapes.

If you would like more information concerning the Emerald Ash Borer you can contact the Ohio department of Agriculture toll free at 1-888-OHIO-EAB.

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Who is Terry?

Terry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink is responsible for city parks and city beautification. He is a certified Arborist and has a certificate in Horticulture with the University of Cincinnati. He also holds a commercial applicator license from the Ohio Department of Agriculture in Turf, aquatic, and Ornamental tree.

""Proper watering is always important, but it becomes crucial when the temperature gets hot and rainfall becomes scarce. If plants are only provided with shallow watering every day, they’re probably only getting a fraction of what they need. Let’s look at the water requirements of trees. Large amounts of water evaporate through tree leaves. This “pulls” water through the plant. Water is the “vehicle” that nutrients use to enter the plant. These nutrients are needed for plant functions and growth. Water is also needed for vital physiological plant processes. A lack of water means stress and disruption of plant functions.

While humans are supposed to drink at least eighty ounces of water a day and more in hot weather, trees need gallons of water. A mature silver maple can lose up to 58 gallons of water per hour on a hot summer day! This translates to over 1000 gallons in a twenty four hour period. Watering your tree for 10, 15 or 20 minutes a day just isn’t going to give that big old maple the water that it needs. It’s like getting only a little glass of water after standing outside all day.

To water trees adequately, water should be applied over a longer period of time that will moisten, (but not saturate!) the soil to a depth of 6-12 inches or more. Water should be applied slowly enough so that it soaks into the soil without running off down the driveway, sidewalk or street. With the heavy clay soils in our area applying water slowly is the only way to achieve the type of deep soil moisture needed for the sustained health of any mature trees. An excellent way to apply water slowly is with a soaker hose. Soaker hoses are made of porous canvas, plastic, or rubber. They allow water to seep out slowly and are useful in watering trees, flowers, vegetables, and shrub beds.

If you have a solid set irrigation system and numerous trees, soaker hoses might not be practical for you. You’ll need to work with your system’s timer so that you can apply water for a longer period of time in the same location. You may want to “pulse” the water, applying it several times with “resting” periods between applications to allow the water to soak in. Check the soil several hours after you water to make sure that it’s moist to a depth of at least 6-12 inches.

It’s important to point out that the tree roots that absorb water are not right next to the trunk of established trees. Water applied in the tree trunk area is typically a waste of water. The fine feeder roots that absorb most of the water for the tree are located at and beyond the “dripline.” The “dripline” is the outer edge of the branch spread. Newly planted trees are an exception to this rule. The water absorbing roots of recent transplants will generally be in the area of the root ball. Care should be taken to keep that root ball moist and water may have to be applied close to the trunk to accomplish this task.

What’s the best time of day to water during the hot weather? It’s probably best to water in the very early morning, but irrigation water isn’t always available when you need it. If you have a choice, water during the cooler part of the day, morning or evening. If you water during the hottest times of the day, you lose considerable moisture from evaporation before the plants even get a chance to use it!

If you have an irrigation system it is always a good idea to check out all your sprinkler heads and make sure they’re working properly. During hot weather, a broken or clogged head might mean a stressed tree, a dead garden plant, or a brown patch of lawn. If you rely on drip systems to water trees and landscape beds, make sure all the emitters are functioning correctly.

A few final cautionary notes, keep your plants supplied with the water they need but be aware that extremely saturated soils can lead to root rot and the eventual death of trees or other plants. While it may take time for a lack of moisture to kill a mature tree, the problems caused by a lack of moisture can contribute to tree’s demise by allowing opportunistic pests or diseases to attack the tree during the stressed condition it is under while lacking adequate moisture and nutrients.

View more tips from Terry!

Who is Terry?

Terry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink is responsible for city parks and city beautification. He is a certified Arborist and has a certificate in Horticulture with the University of Cincinnati. He also holds a commercial applicator license from the Ohio Department of Agriculture in Turf, aquatic, and Ornamental tree.

Johnson Nature Preserve entranceHow can we work together to maintain and develop our urban forest? Simply put it is by planting and caring for our trees!

People inquire from time to time when is the best time to plant a new tree?  The answer is that trees can be successfully planted at almost any time of the year when you find trees for sale if you are prepared to provide regular care for the new tree until it has the time to develop and extensive root network. That care period may take as long as five years.

Don’t be fooled into thinking you can’t plant trees in hot dry weather. If you decide to plant during these hot and dry conditions make sure that you select a tree that has been well cared for at the nursery or garden center and then develop a plan for its continuing care.

Trees require special care during their first five years as they will change and grow rapidly but only if they are properly cared for. Making regular care a priority will go a long way in having a healthy tree that is a wonderful addition to your landscape and the City’s urban forest.

  • Provide the proper amount of water. Too little – or too much water can both be extremely damaging. An irrigation system or a low cost soaker hose with a water timer can help maintain a regular schedule of watering.
  • Plant the tree in an appropriate location.
  • Protect the trees root system. Care should be taken to avoid piling excessive amounts of soil on top of the tree’s buttress roots and root collar. Don’t bury the top of a newly planted tree as the roots need moisture and oxygen. Piling soil on top of the root ball will only cause problems. In our typically heavy clay soils, it is advisable to plant the tree so the root ball of the tree is 1 to 2 inches higher than the surrounding ground and then sloping soil by grading soil toward the top of the root ball without covering it with large amounts of additional soil.
  • Complete a soil analysis so you may fertilize appropriately. A soil analysis will provide information about what deficiencies may exist in the soil and what nutrients may be required for sustained tree health and growth. Trees that were purchased as nursery stock are typically fertilized and will not require any soil amendments during the first year. Plan on doing a soil analysis beginning at the start of the next growing season so that you can determine if additional fertilization or soil amendments may be needed.
  • Use mulch wisely. A layer of mulch 2-3 inches will conserve moisture and add beneficial organic matter to the soil. It will also help protect the young tree from lawn mower or string trimmer damage. One important reminder is to not place the mulch against the trunk of the tree.
  • Prune selectively. Proper pruning, by a certified arborist or one that is familiar with proper pruning techniques will encourage a healthy branch structure in your young tree.
  • Inspect for insects and diseases. Regular inspections can reveal pest and disease problems so they may be addressed before causing significant damage or even death of young trees. Some pests or diseases are difficult to detect so you may want to consider utilizing the services of a trained arborist or tree professional to evaluate your trees.
  • If deer are frequent visitors in your lawn or landscape consider the use of a deer guard from mid August thru the New Year to protect the young trees bark from rutting. When in rut deer can cause significant damage to the bark of a young tree.

While trees do require more frequent care during their early years following planting the benefits of a well planned maintenance program will pay dividends for you as well as future generations.

If you would like more information on how to conduct a soil analysis you may contact the Hamilton County Soil & Water Conservation District at (513) 772-7645 or see their website at www.hcswcd.org Soil testing boxes and instructions can be obtained from their office for $10.00/box

Certified arborists can be found through reputable tree companies in the phone book or contacting the International Society of Arboriculture at (217) 355-9411 or internet: www.isa-arbor.com

View more tips from Terry!

Who is Terry?

Terry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink is responsible for city parks and city beautification. He is a certified Arborist and has a certificate in Horticulture with the University of Cincinnati. He also holds a commercial applicator license from the Ohio Department of Agriculture in Turf, aquatic, and Ornamental tree.

With the severe drought we are experiencing, do not stop watering your trees just because fall is upon us. As long as the soil temperature is 55 degrees or above, tree roots continue to grow, so it is important for trees to keep receiving water in preparation for winter.

The prolonged drought makes it even more important to offer supplemental watering to provide your tree’s root zone with at least the equivalent of one inch of rainfall per week.

View more tips from Terry!

Who is Terry?

Terry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink is responsible for city parks and city beautification. He is a certified Arborist and has a certificate in Horticulture with the University of Cincinnati. He also holds a commercial applicator license from the Ohio Department of Agriculture in Turf, aquatic, and Ornamental tree.

""Terry’s favorite evergreen trees that grow well in the Cincinnati area:  Generally speaking, the best time to plant evergreens is from mid-September to when the ground freezes (usually mid-December).

  • Picea abies – Norway Spruce, grows to 40-60 feet in height.  Excellent, dark green needles, a vigorous grower.  Over planted, but a good choice for the Cincinnati area.
  • Picea omorika – Serbian Spruce, grows to 50-60 feet in height.  One of the most graceful and beautiful spruces with narrow, pyramidal growth.  Very adaptable, grows best in partial sun.
  • Picea orientalis – Oriental Spruce, grows to 50-60 feet in height.  Dense, compact, narrow pyramidal growth.  Good for tighter areas.
  • Picea pungens – Colorado Spruce, grows to 30-60 feet in height.  Gray green to blue green color, very adaptable.  Likes full sun.
  • Picea pungens – Colorado Spruce “Fat Albert”, grows to 15 feet in height.  Dense, upright pyramidal form.  Outstanding small, blue-needled tree.
  • Pinus strobus – Eastern White Pine, grows to 50-80 feet in height.  Needles that are light to bluish green in color, likes fertile, moist, well drained soil.  Will tolerate some shade.  Branches are often lost in strong storms.
  • Pinus flexilis – Limber Pine, grows to 30-50 feet in height.  Does best in moist, well-drained soil.  Prefers sun to partial shade.  Dark green slightly twisted needles.
  • Tsuga Canadensis – Canadian (Eastern) Hemlock, grows to 40-70 feet in height.  Softly and gracefully pyramidal in youth becoming pendulously pyramidal with age.  Excellent for groupings or screenings, one of our better evergreens.
  • Abis concolor – White (Concolor) Fir, grows to 30 – 50 feet in height.  Slow to medium grower with soft bluish green needles.  Probably the best fir for the Cincinnati area.  Will withstand heat, drought and cold equally well.  Does best in rich, moist, well-drained gravelly soil (dislikes heavy clay)  Note: Cincinnati is too hot for most firs.
  • Metasequoia glyptostroboides – Dawn Redwood, grows to 70-100 feet in height.  Fast growing, does best in moist,  well-drained soils in full sun.  Neat, uniform conical habit
  • Taxodium distichum – Common Baldcypress (a deciduous conifer), grows to 50-70 feet in height.   Very adaptable to very wet, or sunny, dry locations.  Leaves bright yellow-green in spring, soft green in summer, rich orange to pumpkin brown in autumn.  I get the most calls on this tree telling me they are dying.  Remember, the leaves appear late May to mid-November.  Baldcypress trees can be found in Montgomery at the Gateway Falls on Pfeiffer Road and around the Swaim and Pioneer Park lakes.

View more tips from Terry!

Who is Terry?

Terry Willenbrink, City arboristTerry Willenbrink is responsible for city parks and city beautification. He is a certified Arborist and has a certificate in Horticulture with the University of Cincinnati. He also holds a commercial applicator license from the Ohio Department of Agriculture in Turf, aquatic, and Ornamental tree.